Interview by Rocio Frausto

Exploding into an intergalactic odyssey of shimmering pearls and oyster shell-flowers marks Hermione de Paula’s Fall 2013 collection.  Lightning bolts morphing seamlessly into forests juxtaposed by lilac passion flowers and extinct orchids. Defying the conventions of scale and  shape with signature silks, ‘fossilized’ trims and pearly beading developing a three-dimensional realm.

At the epicenter of the designers stardom, is the ‘Best of British’ S/S11 Catwalk in Bangkok, an exhibition for avant-garde boutique and gallery space Sister/CANDY boutique in Tokyo, and an installation for concept store Maison BO-M in Saudi Arabia, proceeding the triumph of the SS/11 London Fashion Week installation at Liberty in London.

With a modus operandi that challenges the perception and interpretation of the designs, Hermione de Paula is  supported by fashion royalty including: Camilla Morton, Daphne Guinness, Katy England, Manolo Blahnik, Giles Deacon, Stephen Jones and Yasmin Le Bon.

1.  “Jade and her Magicopolis” is described as a collection which exists as a dreamlike state of memories, colors and surreal episodes that make up their journeys for Spring 2013.  Tell me about the creative process for the fall 2013 collection? 

“The AW13 muse is music herself personified in Melody. The myriad minds of Melody echo as she dances through her musical chambers, her passion for music worn on her sleeve. Here the florals take a musical twist, luxurious fully embroidered silk suits adorned with violins amongst the ornate cut-work. Saxophones appears from floral garlands, and piano keys and guitars burst rhythmically from the centre of blooms creating an unusual floral cacophony”

2.  You also acted as a print consultant for luxury shoe brand Nicholas Kirkwood, collaborating on the mainline, pre-collections and special projects including the Keith Haring collection.  How much creative freedom did you have in developing the visual look and style of the collections?

It was a combination of my current existing prints with Nicholas’s classic designs to create a beautiful collaboration. The pink ‘Foxglove Fantasy’ print from SS12 is still one of my favorite prints – it’s a  print which from at first glance looks like a foxglove but is made up of sparrow birds intertwined in an in English country garden – for the shoes vines are laced down the high heel which look like corsetry lacing. We have a matching pajama trouser suit – which is also one of  Florence Welch’s favorites – its fun wearing a matching suit to your heels- I’m not always a fan of anything being too “matchy” as it can seem sometimes contrived but in this case it feels very glamorous. For the Keith Haring project I helped engineer the artwork to Nicholas’s beautiful innovative designs under his direction, which was a real honor to be involved as I’m a massive Keith fan and love working with Nicholas – always a pleasure!

3.  What was your most memorable experience during your tenure for luxury labels Christian Dior Couture, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Giles, which led to the launch of your own ready to wear label in 2008?

Creating embroideries for the Dior Couture 100^th anniversary show was amazing which was included in the show. I really loved my time at Galliano – it was amazing. Recently I was asked by Elisa Palomino who I trained under at Galliano (head of studio for Galliano & Dior at the time) and is who is now the head of print on the BA Central St. Martins course to go and teach my style of prints which is a real honor and full circle. I think back to my time studying print at Central St. Martins when I was shy and nervous to print even a straight line on anything!

4.  Tell me about your future projects and the global expansion of your brand?

We just launched our first Pre collection for AW13 and launching menswear & unisex for our SS14 resort. Homeware, jewelry and our own e-shop are also on the horizon!

Copyright:  Text/Images  2013

www.hermionedepaula.com

Interview by Rocio Frausto

A dreamlike journey reminiscent of the Elizabethan era, Bibian Blue displayed her fall 2013 collection during Valencia Fashion Week.  Pioneering the reinvention of the corset since 2000, the collection inhabits structured silhouettes contrasted with voluminous satin, Chantilly and guipure fabrics.  Culminated by an apocalyptic headdress designed by Posh Fairytale Couture. Unraveling a plethora of dramatic emotions of a caged woman. 

Born out of the creative synergy between couture, pin-up glamour and pop art design, Bibian Blue’s career includes the Best Design Revlon Professional Hairdressing award, a retrospective exhibition in the Terrassa Textile Museum and catwalk presentations at Barcelona and Valencia Fashion Weeks. Garnering acclaim and global recognition by fashion industry.

 Adorned by celebrities, socialites and trendsetters including Porl Thompson (Guitarist of the Cure), La Mala Rodriguez and Rossi de Palma.

1.  Infused with a contrast of colors, crochet textures and  buoyant fabrics including chiffon, lace and tulles is your Spring 2013 collection. With floral prints designed by illustrator Victoria Francés and “Sally’s Song” dolls.  What new materials did you experiment with for the Fall 2013 collection?  Tell me about your collaboration with German designer, Rachel Sigmon (Posh Fairytale Couture) during the pre-production process for this season?

For this new season, we wanted to create a more commercial line than other seasons. Also, rediscover basic fabrics and materials such as raffia or the ottoman that are  elegant and not commonly explored. The silk organza has also been wonderful to create volumes on sleeves. In essence, experiment with simple materials which can be applied in such a way that it provides a stimulating experience. As for the three final looks, Rachel had developed the designs at her studio. Then, I initiated  the construction process for the collection leading to a strong presentation.

2. The Victorian era and Steampunk genre have also played an integral role in your previous     collections.  What role does history have in your conception of fashion?

       Admire the scenic and historic costume which forms part of our essence and our proposal without imitating an existing work of art. We prefer updating and revisiting.

3.  You initially trained as a graphic designer and make-up artist in Barcelona. How much creative freedom do you have in the beauty and casting process of the shows?

Not as much as we would like. On the runway, the time is very limited and you have to choose proposals that are feasible to execute.  For the photo shoots, we like to develop more of this theme, but recently developed an inclination for a more neutral image. Regarding beauty,  a nod to embellishment without over dramatizing the styles.

4  Tell me about the premiere of your new boutique in Barcelona and the global expansion of your brand?

We just opened a new space in the Centre of Barcelona, it is the place of our dreams. Here, we  finally have the space that we need to work more productively and demonstrate our proposals.  The level of global expansion continues to broaden given the exclusivity of the brand with a less formal collection increasing points of sale.

 Copyright:  Text/Images  2013

www.bibianblue.com

Interview by Rocio Frausto

As flash beams pulsated across the runway and press/buyers analyzed the trends, Assaad Awad  debuted “Medusa.” His menswear/womenswear Spring 2013 collection for Valencia Fashion Week. The collections are driven by an eco-friendly nature and a highly conceptual wisdom. Defying mainstream ideologies with sculptural masterpieces manifested by a deconstructive and recomposing process. Recounting his 12 year experience in advertising (Corporate identities, creation and strategy) as inspirational motifs. With sparking accolades to poignant editorials showcased in Vogue, V and L’Officiel magazines.

Characterized for the uncompromising and theatrical scope of the designs, the Spain based artisan regards Lady Gaga, Nicola Formichetti, Madonna and Thierry Mugler as clients.

1. A metaphorical transformation punctuated by beauty and suppression featuring Rossy de Palma resonated in your Spring 2012 collection. How would you describe your aesthetic approach this season that was different from your past collection? And what were some of the technical challenges associated with the new materials?  This season reflected my personal style.  Concurrently, eliminated all textiles and conceptualized the entire collection on two essential points.  Leather, being the first human “shelter” to survive and the latex being the technological part of it, as if it’s the future interpretation of the leather. No challenges were ahead, I’m simply passionate about leather & latex. Thus, mastering its technique.

2. Your career has also been marked by collaborations with Lady Gaga and Mario Testino What key discussions with these artists determined your vision during the creative process?  I always start with the concept and then solicit three simple words that describe the need of the project. Next, the first piece is designed then the pattern is done. The creative process is culminated by directly mounting the piece on the mannequin.

3. What was your most memorable experience as accessories designer for Thierry Mugler during Paris Fashion Week? The backstage experience was great, I was practically mounting new pieces till the last minute before the show. I love the pressure of the fashion shows.

4. Are there also plans to expand your collections throughout popular markets like China, India, Brazil, etc.? A flagship store in every one of the listed countries would be great. Everything in its right timing.

 Designer’s portfolio may be viewed at:  http://assadawad.com/

Copyright: Text/Images  2012